The South Peak Hermitage, Skellig Michael, KerryMost visitors to Skellig Michael never see the South Peak. They climb the main stairway to the monastery, take in the beehive huts, and that's extraordinary enough. But the hermitage sits higher again, on a narrow spine of rock with drops on both sides that I'd rather not think about too carefully. What gets me about this photograph is how hard the hermitage is to spot at first. The monks built their small oratory and levelled their terrace so